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GourmetGrrl Bites
GourmetGrrl.com: Food with 'tude
October 26, 2005
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Feeling Pressed. Grapes aren't the only thing being harvested this month: olives are being picked and pressed and transformed into olive oil, so read on for tips on how to buy, taste, and cook with that golden liquid.

Cin Cin!
GourmetGrrl, aka Laura Holmes

Grrl with Shaker
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What would a martini be without an olive?

THE CLASSIC MARTINI
1 1/2 ounces vodka or gin
dash of dry vermouth
2 green olives for garnish
Shake the vodka or gin and the vermouth over ice and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with olives.
Serves 1

Grrl, Crushed
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Olive Oil Overload Don’t run screaming from all those rows of olive oil in the grocery store. Yes, there are oils from France, Greece, Italy, California, and Spain, among others, but it doesn’t take a genius to pick out the good ones.
The flavor, color, and aroma of olive oil depends on where it’s from (the type of olive tree) and when the olives were picked (the earlier in the season, the more olive-y the oil will be). Common words used to describe olive oil include grassy, peppery, fruity, and buttery. Color won't indicate the quality of the oil because it's determined by where the olives were picked and the ripeness of the olives. Dinner party trivia: Roughly 10 pounds of olives are needed to make 1 quart of oil.

Olive Knowledge:
Olive oils are graded by the amount of acid they contain. The best are cold- pressed, where pressure - not chemicals - is used to produce a naturally low level of acidity.
Extra virgin olive oil is the result of the first cold-pressing of the olives and contains no more than 1 percent acid. It's considered the best and fruitiest of the olive oils and that's why you pay the big bucks. This is the oil to serve with a crusty piece of brea or drizzle over meats, veggies, and delicate greens.
• Virgin olive oil is also a first-press oil, with an acidity level of between 1 and 3 percent.
• Semi-fine olive oil is a blend of extra virgin and virgin oils and has 3 percent acidity.
• Oil labeled simply “pure olive oil” means the oil contains a combination of refined olive oil and virgin or extra virgin oil. It has little olive flavor, so use it only for sautéing, frying, and marinating.
• Skip the “light” olive oil; it has exactly the same amount of calories but is filtered until it is light in both color and taste.
• Store your olive oil in a cool, dark place for up to a year. (Heat and light destroy the oil so don’t leave the bottle on a sunny windowsill.) You can also stick it in the ‘frig for up to a year. Chilled olive oil becomes cloudy and thick so bring it back to room temp before you use it.
• There are so many tasty olive oils we couldn't name them all, but we do love the oils from The Olive Press and McEvoy Ranch in California; L'Estornell from Spain; Savignola Paolina from Italy; Maussane-les- Alpilles from Provence, France; Yellingbo Gold from Australia; and Moleon from Greece.

Grrl with Knife
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In this dish the pasta is just a vehicle for the olive oil, so be sure to use your best bottle. And anyone who can pick up a pan and a wooden spoon can make it.

SPAGHETTI WITH GARLIC, OLIVE OIL, AND CHILI
3/4 pound spaghetti
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 or more cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese (optional)

Put a large pot of salted water on a stove and bring to a boil. When the water is boiling, add the pasta and cook until al dente, 8 to 10 minutes.
At the same time, in a medium skillet over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the garlic and saute until translucent, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the pepper flakes.
Drain the pasta and transfer to a warmed serving bowl. Add the contents of the skillet and toss well. Season with salt and pepper and pass the grated cheese at the table, if desired.
Serves 4
Recipe courtesy of Peggy Knickerbocker, author of Olive Oil: From Tree to Table and Simple Soirees. Visit her website at www.Simple- Soirees.com

Grrl, Tasting
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If you're headed to Napa or Sonoma wine country, take a break from the vino and try some olive oil. Here are a few spots to tour and taste - and you don't even need a designated driver.

Long Meadow Ranch, Rutherford
Tours of this 650-acre ranch include visits to vineyards, olive groves, an olive mill, and gardens and tastings of wines and oils. (Appointments required; $35-150 a person.)
877-627-2645, www.longmeadowranch.com

McEvoy Ranch, Petaluma
Take a two-hour tour of the 550-acre ranch from March through mid- October and view their prized Italian olive mill and an 18,000-tree orchard and taste their oils. (Appointments required; $20 per person.)
866-617-6779, www. mcevoyranch.com

Round Pond, Rutherford
This tour includes a visit to an orchard, olive mill, and gardens and an oil and red wine vinegar tasting. (Appointments required; $20 per person.)
877-963-9364, www.roundpond.com