__________________________________________________
GourmetGrrl Bites
GourmetGrrl.com: Food with 'tude
Nov30, 2005
__________________________________________________

Holidays, Italian-Style. Somehow the holiday spirit is easier to embrace when you throw in a little something Italian. Buon Natale!

Cin Cin!
GourmetGrrl, aka Laura Holmes

Grrl with Corkscrew
__________________________________________________

Nonino Grappa. It ain't easy to love, that grappa. A bad one is reminiscent of nail polish remover and will turn off even the most adventurous drinker. Grappa [GRAHP-pa] is an Italian distilled spirit made from pomace, the grape seeds and skins that remain after winemaking. The quality of grappa depends on the grapes and the type of distillation, and the type of grape determines the flavor.

Grappa is usually clear, although aged grappas can be amber or golden in color. Grappa has its own classification system according to type of grape, age, etc., but by law all Italian grappa must be between 38% and 60% alcohol by volume.
Flavors of dried fruit, nuts, and spices will emerge in good grappa, so serve it in small, tulip-shaped glasses filled up about one-third, just below room temperature. Grappa is usually served as a digestivo, so serve it after the dessert.

Nonino is one of the best producers, with highly-regarded grappas that range in price from $40 to $200 . Ceretto is another name to look for, as is Marolo. (Marolo Grappa & Camomile, grappa infused with camomile leaves, is worth trying; it has a deep, rich flavor.) Good wine shops like Sherry-Lehmann and Beacon Wines & Spirits carry top-notch grappa.

Grrl, Gnoshing
__________________________________________________

Rulli Italian Fruitcake. Leave it to the Italians to make a damn good fruitcake. Panettone [pan-ah- TONE-ay] is a leavened bread shaped like a dome that has sat on holiday tables in Italy since the 15th century. There are two types: Panettone Milanese and Panettone Genovese; both use white flour, sugar, butter, eggs, candied orange peel, and raisins, but the Genovese version has pine nuts. (With a 30-hour rising process and the need for special pans and a special oven, it's best to leave it to the professionals.)

Good panettone should be light and soft, so watch out for those doorstop panettones lining the shelves of most grocery stores. Get the good stuff or go without. Serve it with coffee for breakfast, use it for ultra-decadent French toast, or plop a little fresh cream over a slice and serve it as dessert.

For authentic panettone, there's only one place to call: Emporio Rulli, an upscale Italian bakery with locations in San Francisco and Larkspur, California, where pastry chef Gary Rulli learned his panettone secrets from Italian bakers. Prices $18-40; they ship everywhere.

Grrl, Shopping
__________________________________________________
When a grrl needs an Italian fix on this side of the Atlantic, we head straight for Buon Italia. This gigantic store is dedicated to Italian food, from freshly made pasta like mamma never made to preserves, honey, coffee, and olive oils imported straight from the source. (They even carry ten different kinds of black licorice, a popular sweet in Calabria.) We love their cheese - especially the buffalo mozzarella and provola - and the riso carnaroli (a long-grain risotto rice).

It's a food wonderland, so bring your wallet and a sturdy bag to take it all home in, or go on-line and get it shipped to your front door.

Buon Italia
Chelsea Market
75 Ninth Avenue, New York City
212.633.9090